Walking the Camino de Santiago: Day 15

We left Castojeriz enveloped in a cool early morning fog, soon shot through with long shadows cast by the rising sun as we climb a steep slope to the Meseta plateau. This was the start of our 25-kilometre walk across flat land and deep blue skies towards Frómista. We had heard from fellow pilgrims that... Continue Reading →

Walking the Camino de Santiago: Day 12

The 26-kilometre path to Burgos crosses a vast swath of human history. It starts with a midday traverse of Atapuerca. Here, in limestone caves below the Atapuerca Massif, archaeologists uncovered (in 1994) a cache of human remains stretching across a pre-Christian era of 127,000 to 1,000,000 years ago. These are the oldest human remains in... Continue Reading →

Walking the Camino de Santiago: Days 10 and 11

The 23-kilometre trek from Santo Domingo to Belorado contrasted two worlds. To one side ran the slick, modern national highway N-120. Its twin ribbons of factory-fresh asphalt crossed the flat, brown landscape, requiring costly overpasses to lead pilgrims from one side to the other. Cars fly through this flat land, missing the details of an agricultural... Continue Reading →

Walking the Camino de Santiago: Day 9

Today’s 24-kilometre walk would lead us to three unique religious experiences. We left Nájera at first light on another beautiful blue-sky day, the sun rising over our shoulders, casting its long shadows towards our destination, Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We soon arrived at the 500-person hamlet of Azofra and made the proper decision to... Continue Reading →

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