It's about two in the morning on October 27, 2017. Once again, Gail and I are on our way back to Japan. Back to Shikoku. Back to the Henro 88 temple pilgrimage. Our plan is to complete the last third of the Henro-michi, visiting the final 44 temples along the route before returning to the... Continue Reading →

Shikoku: Temples

April 17, 2017 A slight drizzle accompanies our way out of Sukumo. Light enough to pack our rain coats away, letting the cool dew dampen our clothes and drip off the brows of our conical hats. We head inland, away from the sea and up into the hills, following small roads and forest trails, cutting... Continue Reading →

Shikoku: In Praise of Mos

April 16, 2017 If yesterday's walk was 6 kilometre’s too long - due to a lack of available lodgings along the way - today’s walk would be that much shorter. Just a 19-kilometre stroll to our pre-booked hotel in Sukumo. Gail and I survived Shimuzugawa-sō, our strange bunkhouse-in-the-woods. In fact, we slept well that night... Continue Reading →

Shikoku: Osettai

April 15, 2017 The hosts at Seiryu, our well-worn lodging in Tosa-Shimizu, sent us off for the day with a wonderful Japanese breakfast. A good thing considering this will be a long 39-kilometre day of walking. We will be traversing a particularly remote part of Shikoku. Accommodations are both rare and well-booked. Tonight’s accommodation took... Continue Reading →

Shikoku: Kongōfukuji

April 14, 2017 We leave Kaiyu Inn rather late, tempted by pancakes, waylaid by conversation. But this is a beautiful, sun-filled day that inspires a lazy attitude to our pilgrim mission. Within minutes we pass alongside the sweeping white sands of Ōki No Hama Beach. Behind us, the pristine white mass of Kaiyu Inn hangs... Continue Reading →

Shikoku: Kaiyu

April 13, 2017 This looked to be an unusual day. For a change, the sky is clear as we make our way out of Nakamura. The Henro-michi takes us along the banks of the ever-broadening Shimanto River to its mouth at the Pacific Ocean. From here, the path heads inland, following Highway 321 as it... Continue Reading →

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