Exploring the unlikely intersections of walking, photography and making
Misono, our frenetic host, was out the door before her guests had finished breakfast. She had a community volunteer flower-planting party to command. Minshuku Misono was part of the recently-established network of HenroHouse lodgings dotting the 88-temple Henro route. It's a convenient way to book rooms in advance, using the HenroHouse English-friendly website. I hope it... Continue Reading →
On our second day of walking, we leave Fuji Business Hotel and Muroto City behind as we make our way along the coastline of Kochi Prefecture. We also leave yesterday's stormy, wet and cold. Sure, it is cooler than we would wish but the bright overcast is a welcome reprieve. Soon, we are climbing once... Continue Reading →
The day started off well enough. It was a pleasant sunny morning as we departed Tokushima on the first of three trains and one bus. They would take us to the foot of a trail leading 200 meters up through dense forest to Hotsumisakiji, Temple 24 on the Henro pilgrimage route. By the time we... Continue Reading →
This should be a pleasant day, walking alongside the Pacific Ocean, listening to the unusually gentle waves. But two things weigh heavily on my walks and thoughts. Physically, my legs are taking a beating. I started the trip having just recovered from a right hamstring injury. That problem faded only to be replaced by increasingly... Continue Reading →
Highway 55 has been our constant nemesis since leaving Tokushima, 3 days ago. It has us hugging shoulders as successive trucks and cars speed past at alarming speeds. Today, however, the highway’s gas-powered energy begins to sputter. There are no more large communities between Hiwasa, our starting point, and Cape Muroto, the isolated point three... Continue Reading →
Signs lead us to the sea. The day starts early with a visit to Temple 22, Byōdōji, conveniently located beside Sazanka, last night’s ryokan. As at most temples Kongō Rikishi statues guard the entrance to the temple. The figures are fierce protectors of the faith complete with snakes wrapped around their well-tooled chests. Not far... Continue Reading →
After two days of carefree walking on the flat, Kōbō Daishi puts us to the test once more. A mere five minutes after leaving our ryokan, Kaneko-ya, the climb begins. One more heart-pounding near-vertical ascent, this time 500 metres up to Temple 20, Kakurinji. Of course, it is a beautiful forest path with plenty of... Continue Reading →
Goodbye Tokushima. Goodbye friends. Today we leave behind the big city and our pilgrim friends, Kanaka and Itou. They will be heading back to their homes on the mainland. We will thread our way through the messy edge of the city and back into a more rural landscape of villages, rice fields and temples. Not... Continue Reading →
Farewell mountains. Hello Tokushima. Again. Our five days of walking has taken us in a complete circle, back to the place where our journey began. When we first arrived on Shikoku five days ago, we headed to Temple 1 in the small hamlet of Bando. There, we purchased our Henro gear and fumbled our way... Continue Reading →
Nice flat paths. That is what lies between the physically demanding climb to Temples 11 and 12 and that final, mentally exhausting ascent to Temple 24. Eight days of gentle walking. This is the first of those easy passages through forests and villages, sea coasts and cities. Our day’s route from our minshuku just past... Continue Reading →